The house across from the swings had an unusual half-building next to it, and I didn't have to wait long to discover its special purpose. What appeared to be the island's bus – a large rusted green pick-up truck with two dozen people riding on open seats on the back – pulled up. The orange T-shirted members of the group formed an eight-person church choir, a Dutch group visiting for the day. The few remaining island locals joined the choir's “imported” supporters and a small congregation, plus the two of us perched on swings across the field, and enjoyed a brilliant burst of song from this purpose-built stage.

Without waiting for a tip, Abby ran off to her next appointment. The afternoon ferry run soon began, and we were reunited with Tõnnis on his ten-man boat.

"So, goodbye," he began, as he brought us into the Roomassaare port, "and I wish you good journey in our Estonia and healthy journey, and for your future and for ..." He trailed off, unable to find a good translation for his formal farewell. Instead, he shook our hands and gave us his business card.

We filed it away carefully, in case our travels ever take us back to far-flung Abruka.

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