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| e-Marginalia
Newsletter |
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Issue #19, February 15, 2006 |
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Issue #18, January 15, 2006 |
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Issue #17, December 15, 2005 |
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Issue #16, November 15, 2005 |
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Issue #15, October 21, 2005 |
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Issue #14, September 15, 2005 |
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Issue #13, January 14, 2005 |
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Issue #12, December 14, 2004 |
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Issue #9, September 12, 2004 |
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Issue #8, August 4, 2004 |
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Issue #7, July 7, 2004 |
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Issue #6, June 1, 2004 |
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Issue #5, April 1, 2004 |
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Issue #4, March 1, 2004 |
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Issue #3, February 1, 2004 |
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Issue #2, December 21, 2003 |
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Issue #1, November 21, 2003 |
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I am naturally drawn to towers in our travels, always anxious to
climb high for a bird’s eye view, an inclination not shared by my
husband. He waited while I headed up the lighthouse steps behind a
group of schoolchildren. As we climbed, the children counted the
steps, and I counted along with them in German, “Ein, zwei, drei…”
The climb to the top yielded wonderful vistas of the town, lake and
Alps.
 Chic shops lined the pedestrian streets and scattered here and there
were artistically decorated fiberglass cows costumed according to
each business nearby-a chef cow stood outside a restaurant, an
electrician cow in front of a lamp shop, etc. The afternoon quickly
passed with our game of trying to find the next cow and figuring out
what business it represented.
The following day we took a boat to Meersburg, a town on the north
shore of Lake Constance, which was not accessible by train.
Unfortunately, it was raining and we could barely make out the
shoreline. But the town of Meersburg was beautiful, perched on a
rocky cliff along the lake. Vineyards and orchards clung to the
steep hills flanking the town, resplendent in their fall colors.
 There are two separate parts to the town, Oberstadt, the upper town
high on the hill, and Understadt, the lower one along the lake. We
found a lovely small hotel near the waterfront, where our
third-floor room overlooked a street filled with half-timbered
buildings and flowerboxes in every window. We spent the next two
days strolling through the picturesque, romantic streets and along
the waterfront of the small town admiring the architecture and
profusion of flowers and stopped to watch an occasional street
performer.
Eventually we climbed the steep street to Oberstadt, stopping at
Altes Schloss, a medieval castle, along the way. The 7th century
structure boasts a moat and dungeons with the lake mists rising
around it like an old Dracula movie. People filled the tiny streets
at the top of the town going in and out of the many shops selling
handicrafts perfect for filling our shopping bags.
Leaving Meersburg, we took a short ferry ride across the lake to
Konstanz, where we could once again pick up the train. Konstanz is
literally on the German-Swiss border. Two train stations serve the
town: one in Germany, and a few meters beyond, on the same platform,
one in Switzerland. We discussed where our next stop would be while
we waited in the Swiss station. I picked up a brochure for nearby
Stein am Rhein and decided to head there, calling ahead for a hotel
room.
 Arriving in Stein, we could see the town on the riverbank opposite
the station. We made the short walk over the bridge spanning the
Rhine River and soon reached Rathausplatz, the main square. Nearly
all of the buildings were painted with intricate and colorful murals
enhanced by ornate architectural details. The result was stunning
and so picturesque that we had our cameras out of our bags before we
had even checked into our hotel which, to our delight, was in one of
these lovely buildings. We learned that some of these frescoes are
nearly 500 years old, yet are remarkably well preserved. Our day was
spent exploring the streets and sights of Stein with a stroll along
the river and a stop for refreshments at an outdoor beer garden.
Waking to another rainy day, we decided to make a long trip north to
Heidelberg. There were a few possible routes that would get us to
our destination, so I asked at the information desk which train to
take. The friendly German advised us to take the slightly longer
route through the Black Forest. He assured us we wouldn’t regret the
extra time. He was right. We nearly got whiplash trying to see out
both sides of the train, not wanting to miss a thing as we rode
through the mountains and lush green valleys dotted with quaint
villages. Even in the rain, the views were wonderful. Our seats were
spacious and comfortable, and as we relaxed and enjoyed the scenery,
a waiter took our lunch order, delivering it to us from the dining
car. I couldn’t imagine a more luxurious travel day.
 Heidelberg was a larger city than expected. We got a room at a
charming antique-filled hotel, overlooking a landmark bridge on the
Neckar River. Fred nicknamed the bridge “salt and pepper shakers,”
which seemed an apt description. The lively center of the city is
closed to vehicles, and the streets were filled with tourists as
well as young students, in this big university town. The highlight
of our stay was a trip to a large imposing castle high above the
town. The beautiful gothic-renaissance fortress is reached by taking
a funicular, a steep railway car, up the the mountain from the city
center. Partially destroyed in the 1600s, the ruins were covered
with vines, brilliant in their autumn colors. The grounds and
terraces around the castle provided lovely views of the city and
river below.
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