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La Laguna
Situated in the center of Los Esteros on the shores of la Laguna Iberá, Colonia Carlos Pellegrini is a small village of about 600
people, with sandy dirt roads, a couple of bars, and one phone which
all the residents use to both make and receive calls. At one end of
town, abutting la laguna, sits the splendid Posada Aguapé lodge.
This rustically quaint hotel boasts lake access, a pool, delicious
food, and one of the most caring and conscientious staff imaginable.
In charge of the day-to-day operations at the Aguapé is a young
fellow named Rafael, who along with his equally fun and energetic
wife kept guests’ bellies full and smiles beaming at all times.
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The Aguape Lodge (Mike Norman) |
Days at the Aguapé began with the sound of Rafael knocking on room
doors informing guests that the boat would be leaving at 9am, and
more importantly, that the hot tea and coffee, and the freshly baked
rolls (and requisite dulce de leche) were ready in the dining room.
Once roused, we made our way to the communal dining room and found
ourselves at our room’s designated table eating alongside the
Aguapé’s other guests. Since guests enjoy breakfast, lunch, teatime,
and dinner together at the hotel, there were plenty of chances to
mingle and get to know fellow Esteros adventurers. Entertainment was
provided by the lodge’s resident bird population, which squawked and
squabbled over the breadcrumbs and birdseed thrown on the lawn by
the Aguapé staff. Awkwardly attractive giant wood-rails, strikingly
blue Sayaca tanagers, and clown-like Monk parakeets made for a very
motley but colorful cast of characters for the daily performances.
Once breakfast was finished, the true Esteros experience began.
Seated in a small boat driven by the Aguapé’s naturalist/handyman,
Antonio, we sped across the lake, and instantly the place seemed to
transform. We now became aware of the birds-of-prey soaring overhead
and of the cormorants diving for fish, and we started to focus on
the reedy islands that dotted the far end of the lagoon. As we
neared the esteros (islands that are so waterlogged that they
actually float), Antonio killed the outboard motor and began to pole
us up a narrow channel. All of the boat’s passengers fell silent and
edged off their seats, squinting at the banks in hopeful
anticipation.
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Carpincho II (Mike Norman) |
Two minutes later, we were treated to the spectacle of a large,
solitary, male carpincho—or capybara to the Brazilians to the
north—all 100 pounds of overgrown guinea pig. He just sat there
munching on river-weeds, acting like he could care less how close we
got or how many shutter clicks we could fire in his direction. Not
ten yards away, sunning himself on the opposite side of the
reed-choked canal, sat the top predator of Los Esteros, a grinning,
six-foot-long black caiman. This discovery brought excited giggles
from the three young kids onboard our boat, while their parents—who
up until that moment had allowed them to hang precariously over the
side—quickly pulled them away from the bow and made them sit close
by. This was the magic of Los Esteros, and it was not even 10am yet.
The rest of the boat ride that first day, like those we took each
morning, was filled with more of the same. Dozens of carpinchos and
caimans lined the lagoon’s banks, while birds of every persuasion
filled the sky, land, and water.
Aguapé Afternoons
Afternoons at the Aguapé were far more relaxing than the mornings.
Teatime at 4pm was the only officially scheduled event each day, and
most guests dedicated a few hours to lounging in a hammock reading,
or to taking advantage of a full siesta. In addition to taking daily
naps, guests could choose to go on jungle hikes or boating trips, or
take one of the Aguapé’s mountain bikes and explore Carlos
Pellegrini on their own. During the course of our stay, Katie and I
tried all of these activities, and each one was an experience.
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