mediterranean, greece, cyprus, travel

Like the rest of Cyprus, Pafos is littered with wonderful archaeological treasures, including many World Cultural Heritage sites. The Tombs of the Kings is my favorite. It’s a necropolis, from around the 3rd century B.C., which sprawls out languorously among scenic seaside resorts. It contains underground tombs and chambers, and I felt like an archeologist, burning and sweating in the hot summer sun, while traipsing up and down stairs carved out of rock. Oddly enough, the Tombs of the Kings gets its name not because it was the burial place for kings, but rather from impressive Egyptian-inspired pillars, atriums and secret niches built by nobles who were laid to rest here.

Tombs (Photos used with permission from Cyprus Tourism Organization and Oriana Mourides.)

Other Pafos archeological treasures are the 3rd century Roman villas discovered accidentally in 1962, which showcase the tessera, or tiles, that wealthy Roman residents used to decorate their homes. The House of Dionysos has the most interesting mosaics. In the afternoon sun, the mosaics seem faded, dusty, brown and red. But each mosaic still tells a story: Dionysos in a chariot with a wreath on his head. Blue flasks of wine. Leopards and centaurs leading the way in a parade. It’s all about good wine, good food, good friends—idyllic Mediterranean way of life.

After enjoying Cyprus’ coastal cities, we head to Lefkosia, Cyprus’ capital—ready for a little nightlife. Lefkosia is a fascinating 1,000-year-old walled city. The artsy area of Lefkosia is close to the Famagusta Gate, one of three original entrances to old Lefkosia. There are trendy clubs, restaurants and theaters.

As we make our night crawl through Lefkosia, Adonis points out the most interesting sight yet, the Green Line. The Green Line divides Lefkosia into north and south. It’s highlighted by old landmarks, bombed-out buildings enclosed in barbed wire and a U.N. peacekeeping force.

In 1974, Turkey invaded Cyprus, and the Green Line divides Cyprus into Greek-and Turkish-speaking regions. The only country to recognize northern occupied Cyprus is Turkey, which calls itself the Republic of Northern Cyprus. You can visit northern Cyprus from Lefkosia, but you can’t get your passport stamped if you wish to return to Greek Cyprus. The U.N. checkpoint issues a visitor’s day pass, and travelers need to keep this with them at all times.

Adonis'Baths (Photos used with permission from Cyprus Tourism Organization and Oriana Mourides.)

So having traveled this far, I couldn’t leave without spending at least a day in northern occupied Cyprus. Oriana and I meet up with a Turkish-Cypriot friend of hers, Emir, outside the Ledra Palace, the headquarters for the U.N. peacekeeping force.

My favorite discovery is Kyrenia, a quaint town I consider to be the prettiest in Cyprus, about a 30-minute drive from northern Lefkosia. Kyrenia is Pafos’ slightly more beautiful twin, I think.

We head to Kyrenia’s old harbor, dominated by stone fortresses built around the time of the Crusades. We have frappes, a Greek coffee drink at an outdoor café, only to be interrupted by well-fed stray cats, slinking their way into the shade to escape from the heat. We walk the promenade, look out onto the marina filled with pretty fishing boats and yachts. Our only company are a few locals hanging around, swimming and fishing.

Our last stop is Saint Hilarion Castle, a must-see while in Kyrenia. The fairytale castle hovers on the edge of a mountain and served as a summer resort for the Lusignan conquerors of Cyprus. Originally, the castle was built as a watchtower to monitor the approach of Arab pirates who launched a series of raids in Cyprus beginning in the 7th century. The castle now inspires tales of adventure and romance. Emir says that even Walt Disney himself may have used this castle as his inspiration for one of Disney’s logos.