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| e-Marginalia
Newsletter |
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Issue #19, February 15, 2006 |
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Issue #18, January 15, 2006 |
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Issue #17, December 15, 2005 |
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Issue #16, November 15, 2005 |
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Issue #15, October 21, 2005 |
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Issue #14, September 15, 2005 |
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Issue #13, January 14, 2005 |
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Issue #12, December 14, 2004 |
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Issue #9, September 12, 2004 |
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Issue #8, August 4, 2004 |
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Issue #7, July 7, 2004 |
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Issue #6, June 1, 2004 |
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Issue #5, April 1, 2004 |
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Issue #4, March 1, 2004 |
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Issue #3, February 1, 2004 |
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Issue #2, December 21, 2003 |
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Issue #1, November 21, 2003 |
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The next sight was the one we had all been
anticipating with much excitement: The Great Wall. The incredible
man made structure is one of the Seven Wonders of the World and
rightly so. Incredible. Breath taking. Immense. Everywhere you
looked up and down the towering mountains, there it was. Mind
boggling to think that this entire creation, over two thousand miles
long and wide enough to accommodate several side-by-side horses, was
laid entirely by hand. We arrived in Badaling and walked on a mere
portion of Wall before we found ourselves winded and our legs aching
from the sheer steep rise of the Wall. It felt as though we were
walking at a 60-degree incline. As we rested along the way to the
top, we watched some of the children attempt to run up the
brick-paved path only to end up gasping once they reached one of the
beacon towers. One small child was wearing an interesting hat that
was round, rimless, and had a long, braided queue attached to the
back of it to give the illusion that it was the child’s own hair
trailing down. Despite the amusing headgear the child had on, we had
to give him credit – he was being carried while we labored uphill by
ourselves. The descent was much faster (occasionally dangerously so)
and once we reached the exit and got past all of the pushy vendors,
we took a moment to admire the creation one last time before heading
back to Beijing. The Wall and the surrounding mountainside was an
amazing and awe-inspiring place and definitely a sight not to be
forgotten.
On Sunday, still enjoying the national extended holiday weekend, we
drove to Yihehuan, the Summer Palace where emperors and empresses
would frolic after escaping from the rigors of palace life in the
Forbidden City. We bargained a bit in our Chinglish ("Duo shao chyan?"
- "how much are they" in Chinese - and "no no, too much" in English)
and purchased a few postcards before we toured the Palace. We
strolled along Kunming Lake, the charming gardens, and the tranquil
park. We saw the Hall of Benevolence and Longevity, the Cloud
Dispelling Hall, and the Palace of Virtue and Harmony. The names
were marvelous and so much more elegant and descriptive than Ronald
Reagan Washington National Airport. A boat tour took us around the
lake to the Long Corridor, which, true to its name, is mighty long –
about half a mile along the shore. The corridor is painted inside
and out with scenes of Chinese flowers, animals, myths, and people.
During the Cultural Revolution, the Red Guards took whitewashed over
all the paintings but an attempt has been made since then to restore
them to their original appearance. It is a shame that so much art
was systematically destroyed in those years. The last sight we
viewed in Yihehuan was Empress Ci Xi's famous Marble Boat.
Apparently, the good Empress told her people that although she
regretted it, she needed to tax them to raise money for a navy to
ward off invaders. Money in hand, she changed her mind and decided
to build a lavish, marble boat upon which to hold parties and
dinners. She was not very popular.
Our next stop was Tian Ten, the Temple of Heaven, considered to be
the exact meeting point of Heaven and Earth. Historically, the
Temple of Heaven was so sacred that the citizens could not even look
upon it, especially because the complex was part of the Forbidden
City which was not open to us mere peons until 1912. Now, even
foreigners are permitted to gaze upon the Temple, see the wonder of
the blue-topped Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest, and walk around
grounds and admire the classic Ming architecture at will. We ended
our day with some delicious roasted yams from the street vendors
outside of the Temple.
After four days of holidays, Monday hit. People were driving to
work, helter-skelter traffic started up again, and factories began
churning out acres of thick, nasty pollution. When I got up at 7am
(thanks to the evil, torturous cuckoo clock) and looked outside, it
appeared very foggy . . . but the fog never lifted. It wasn't fog;
it was unadulterated pollution. Tiananmen Square was on the agenda
this day so we hailed a cab to take us there. One aside: the inside
of Chinese cabs are so funny; they are like some American cabs in
that they have a glass partition between the front and back seats,
but for added protection (although I don't know if it's for our
protection or theirs), they have another glass partition between the
front passenger's side and the driver's side. This means the driver
has to tool around the city in a cramped little plastic box a
quarter of the size of the car all day with only a small sliding box
to receive any fares.
Tiananmen Square: largest public square in the world, home of the
Great Hall of the People, and most known for the massacre that
occurred in 1989. It was much less crowded after the holidays, so we
were free to wander at a leisurely pace. A huge portrait of Chairman
Mao greeted us at the entrance of the Forbidden City which contained
hall after hall of ornate pillars, huge thrones, gilded ceilings,
carved dragons and lions and bears oh my, and a fortune in jewels. The interior was vast and hushed. Each room
seemed more opulent than the next. One intriguing piece of handiwork
was a five foot jade carving of a mountain complete with intricately
sculpted miniature trees, animals, and people. Another room
contained delicate porcelain while yet another featured gleaming,
deadly weapons. The city was so grand and spacious that we actually
did not even get to the other end and certainly did not see all
9,999 rooms because we finally lost steam and only had enough energy
to retrace our steps and hail a cab back home.
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