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| e-Marginalia
Newsletter |
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Issue #19, February 15, 2006 |
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Issue #18, January 15, 2006 |
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Issue #17, December 15, 2005 |
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Issue #16, November 15, 2005 |
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Issue #15, October 21, 2005 |
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Issue #14, September 15, 2005 |
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Issue #13, January 14, 2005 |
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Issue #12, December 14, 2004 |
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Issue #9, September 12, 2004 |
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Issue #8, August 4, 2004 |
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Issue #7, July 7, 2004 |
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Issue #6, June 1, 2004 |
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Issue #5, April 1, 2004 |
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Issue #4, March 1, 2004 |
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Issue #3, February 1, 2004 |
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Issue #2, December 21, 2003 |
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Issue #1, November 21, 2003 |
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One of the biggest shockers occurred right at the outset. When
you arrive at the Santiago airport, a sign requests that Americans
(and citizens of several other countries) present themselves at a
little booth to pay a U.S. $100 reciprocity tax. At two o’clock in
the morning and after a full day of traveling, that kind of surprise
doesn’t sit well. You decide whether (and what type of) preparation
would’ve lessened this blow.
The next surprise was the mountains.
Even
viewed initially upon nighttime arrival during a quick taxi ride
through the city, the Cordillera de los Andes is an overwhelming
feature of the Chilean landscape. I was awed by this presence, and I
doubt that any forewarning could have made that sensation more (or
less) powerful.
I struggled to understand the rapid, clipped Chilean Spanish, which
presented an unexpected communication barrier. And as for making
myself understood, well, after years of Spanish classes, even giving
myself the benefit of the doubt I sounded like a big, inarticulate
baby. ¡Qué frustración!
An interesting surprise, given the caution one has to exercise in
Ecuador, where I had been briefly prior to this whirlwind Chile
adventure: you can drink the tap water in Chile.
My
friend told me before I arrived that the seats on the semi-cama bus
recline 70%, putting you (to sleep) in the lap of luxury. It was
lovely to realize that this mode of travel is indeed luxurious,
especially on a gorgeous late summer day when the sun is shining
brightly and the windows are cracked open and a beautiful-eyed,
curly-pigtailed, mischievous young girl is trying her best to keep
you awake but is not entirely successful because the allure of “the
land of nod” is just… too… strong.
Seeing agribusiness campuses prominently arrayed along the highway
between Santiago and Temuco was staggering. You wouldn’t imagine
that that stretch of road in Chile could somehow feel like
industrial New Jersey, but (surprise!) it sort of does.
One of the most surprising of surprises, and ultimately one of the
best of stories from this trip involves gypsies. Gypsies? Yes,
gypsies.
When a friend of mine studied abroad in Chile for one year during
college, the most popular telenovela in the country was called
“Gypsy.” I think he saw it as rather absurd – or at least pleasantly
ironic – that he was given numerous warnings about scams frequently
pulled by gypsies, given the group’s timely (omni)presence in pop
culture. This season, one of the most hyped telenovelas is called
“Hippie.” To the best of my knowledge, there are no hippie scams,
but folks’ attention seems to have shifted. So maybe it makes sense
that no one warned me about the gypsies who – despite the change in
television programming – haven’t stopped obtaining money from
unsuspecting tourists.
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