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Discovering Italy's Wine Towns |
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By
Nancy J. DiDio - After our first trip to Italy many years ago, my husband Fred and I fell in love with the country, and it has become our favorite vacation destination. In our earliest trips, we saw the many famous cities and sights that are on every tourist’s itinerary, but with each visit we ventured further off the beaten track. We soon discovered that meandering along country roads and stopping when we saw something that caught our interest offered unexpected rewards. With each trip, we planned less of our journey, choosing instead to visit within a particular region or two, and let our instincts guide us. On one particular trip, our plan was to explore the area between Florence and Rome before heading south to the Amalfi coast.
After beginning our trip with a few planned days in Florence, we set out into the Tuscan countryside. We began our excursion by traveling along the Via Chiantigiana, the principal road through the hilly Chianti region, home to the makers of Italy’s classic red Chianti Classico wines. Each hillcrest revealed panoramas of ancient stone farmhouses surrounded by vineyards. Villages perched on hilltops were often surrounded by walls, their strategic positions attesting to the many wars that were fought there in medieval times. The town of Greve was the largest we passed through, its central piazza surrounded by pretty arcades and terraces. It had shops offering tastes of the wine and other local products, which we sampled, then bought some provisions for a roadside picnic. We made a short stop in Castellina, dominated by a medieval fortress with stunning views. There we found more shops offering tastes of the local Chiantis. We didn’t dare sample too many wines while navigating the steep, unfamiliar roads, so we began looking for a place to spend the night. Hotels are not plentiful in this area, but we found a small, simple albergo outside of Radda, which had a restaurant so we wouldn’t have to venture out at night.
Entering the restaurant that evening, we were surprised to see it was nearly full. We were seated at the only remaining table, adjacent to the kitchen, where we could see a flurry of activity. Women covered in flour rolled out endless sheets of pasta, while others grilled meats over an open fire in a wood-burning oven. We anticipated a wonderful meal.
The same ladies who toiled so hard in the kitchen were also waiting on the tables. It quickly became apparent that there was no organization to their operation. Some tables got waited on, some didn't. We finally flagged one of the ladies down and asked for a wine list. We were in the heart of Chianti wine country, and every table had at least one open bottle of wine on it. We looked forward to choosing just the right one, but when the list was finally brought to us, it had a rather limited and pricey selection. Amazingly, there were not even any Chianti wines offered. Rather perplexed, we ordered a wine from another area of Tuscany, and waited for someone to take our meal order. It was an extremely long wait. Try as we might, we could not get the attention of the ladies as they scurried back and forth to the kitchen. Finally, one came out and set in front of us a plate of crustini, little rounds of toasted bread with toppings, which we had not ordered. They looked good and we were very hungry, so we ate them without questioning. Eventually, we ordered and got a delicious meal of ravioli with sage, followed by roasted pork.
While waiting for our meal, in the kitchen I saw an old man at the sink filling various types of wine bottles from a huge straw-covered jug. It dawned on me that what appeared to be a wide variety of wines on all the surrounding tables was really local Chianti from this jug served in recycled bottles. We were probably the only ones in the restaurant not drinking it! An important lesson had been learned: when in a wine town, order the local wine.
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