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Discovering Italy's Wine Towns

The next day we wandered the roads south of Chianti, abundant with olive groves and vineyards. We drove for miles through the vineyards owned by Villa Banfi, one of the best-known importers of Italian wine to the US. We learned that Banfi’s vineyards encompass over 7,100 acres.

On a distant hilltop we saw a walled-in town, which a check of our roadmap told us was Montalcino, home to one of Italy’s finest and most expensive red wines, Brunello di Montalcino. We decided to stop there. Inside the walls, we followed signs to the Fortezza, a castle sitting on the highest point of town. The castle offered panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. It also held an enoteca, or wine bar, which served glasses of the local wine. We walked around the small town in which every street offered magnificent views. We soon reached the Piazza del Popolo, with a tall tower, sidewalk cafes, and another enoteca.

Montalcino seemed like a good choice in which to stay. From here we could travel to some of the other area towns. We located a hotel in the center of town. When asked if there was a room available, the desk clerk indicated they did have one room left, but we wouldn't like it. Fred asked her if it was a room for two people, and she said it was, but still seemed certain we wouldn't want the room. She was getting flustered at our inability to understand what she was saying, so I suggested we look at the room to see for ourselves. As she ushered us up the stairs, I finally thought I understood what she was telling us, and when she opened the door to the room, my suspicions were confirmed. Bunkbeds! The hotel was attractive and conveniently located, so to her surprise we took the room anyway. After a slight disagreement over who would get the upper bunk, we settled into our quirky quarters.

At dinner that evening, we met two German bicyclists who were staying in a different hotel, and they had bunkbeds as well. We learned that this area of Tuscany is popular with cross-country bicyclists, who generally look for economic accommodations in dormitory-style hostels. Since there were no hostels locally, some of the hotels offered this sleeping arrangement as a less expensive alternative to traditional rooms with two beds.

Although we wanted to visit the neighboring towns, one night in bunkbeds was enough, so we headed for a new destination in the morning. We briefly stopped in nearby Pienza, where we again bought picnic provisions, then headed on to the hilltop town of Montapulciano. Of all the hill towns we had seen so far, this was the steepest. Entering the city walls, we encountered extremely narrow streets, so confusing in their layout that we soon found ourselves exiting the walls in a different direction. There, in an open field below us, was a pale gold domed church. It was a beautiful and unexpected sight, and we stopped for a look inside. We had found the Tiempo di San Biagio, a 16th century church constructed of limestone.

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