Mostly Ritzy St. Thomas

Day after day I was drawn to the beach, but when I felt that the Aquatic Center staff needed a break, I wandered off to float in the infinity-edge pool or soak in the Jacuzzis. One evening we enjoyed a spectacular sunset cruise on the Ritz Carlton’s 53-foot catamaran, the Lady Lynsey, while sipping island punch and indulging ourselves on a seafood hors d'oeuvres buffet. On two lazy afternoons we snorkeled around the harbor, exploring the reefs for colorful fish, corral and plants. Dazzling marine life in every color of the rainbow was present a mere stone’s through from the beach, but several encounters stand out in my memory: a sting ray roughly the size of a large suitcase, a slightly smaller greenish-blue spotted sea tortoise, a barracuda the length of my leg and a school of phosphorescent squid.

By the end of the first week, I decided that it was high time for a massage to alleviate the strains of island living. So I headed off to the Ritz’s new boutique spa for a therapeutic massage. This recently opened facility includes a fitness center with cardio and weight training equipment, an outdoor “relaxation terrace” overlooking the beach and bay, and comfortable massage treatment and changing rooms.

I lolled around in my bathrobe on the relaxation terrace while waiting to be called for my massage. Before long a diminutive Swedish woman gathered me up and lead me off to a small massage room with subdued lighting and a hint of aromatic massage oil. Initially chatty, she intuitively quieted down as she began to work on my legs and back. I slipped into a languid reflection on the benefits of frequent massage and lamented the irregularity with which I’ve been able to achieve these benefits. My mind wandered to a Persian story of a powerful man totally dependent upon his personal masseuse, his rise and fall inextricably tied to the power of the masseuse.

She interrupted my meditation gently and infrequently to ensure that I was comfortable, that she was applying appropriate pressure or asking me to roll over. An hour and a half later I emerged relaxed and happy, even a bit dopey, to get ready for dinner.

Although our group was scattered throughout the day – perfecting the challenging Mahogany Run 18 hole championship golf course, boating, swimming, fishing, shopping, and generally lazing about – each evening we came together for dinner. The size of our group and two young children marginally limited available venues, yet we enjoyed many memorable dining experiences, several definitely worth recommending.

The Ritz Carlton offers several options including Iguana's, casual beachfront dining with simple Caribbean and Continental fare, and the similar Coconut Cove Beach Bar & Grill. We ate lunch in one or the other every day, and, generally were quite pleased with our meals. Of note: Iguana’s daily fish special is a seared piece of fresh fish served over a bed of hearty greens. Delicious.

We ate dinner twice at the Palm Garden Café which is ostensibly a step up from the other two, but likewise offers casual outdoor dining. The menu is considerably larger and there’s a Mediterranean influence including an antipasta buffet. Although we had been discouraged from eating dinner at the Great Bay Grill, The Ritz Carlton’s high end restaurant, I ate Sunday brunch here on my final morning, and it was a memorable experience. Served as a buffet, it would have been challenging to dream up a dish that was not available. Every type and preparation of fish and seafood, lamb, beef, chicken and pasta as well every conceivable breakfast possibility. And the desserts… I finished off with a prepared-to-order crepe with sliced pears, drizzled with melted chocolate.

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