There are many propaganda signs that I haven’t been able to make out for their Chinese characters. One sign, though, catches my eye; it is written in English: “Don’t turn your back, United States. Taiwan deserves a fair election.” Others I can read are more blatantly hateful: “Dirty Chen cheated on Elections.” I wonder when this surging hatred will stop.

I had gone to a rally for the DPP (Democratic Progressive Party) a few weeks before on the anniversary of the 2/28 massacre. I deemed the crowd to be mostly young to middle-aged adults. Young people aren’t as into the “new” party as one might think. The controversial, independence-seeking party frocked in bright green hats and banners is old hat. The kids my age have grown up watching Chen’s rise to power; many do not like him, or distrust him. Then again, I am situated in Taipei, the KMT’s stronghold, while the DPP is traditionally headquartered in southern Taiwan.

My friends and I shuffle along the aisle of tables and stands, glancing upon various pins and keepsakes with blinking lights on them. I buy a flashing one with the Taiwanese flag on it – red and blue, with a white star in the corner, so similar to my own country’s. We lose half our party. While searching and eking our way along the crowd, we are caught in the stream of a clan carrying a long banner. Those carrying the poles are about ten feet apart from each other, and we duck from side to side of the walking train. A bowl drum passes by, and another drummer passes with a small, more traditional steel gong. We find our friends again and unite amidst the passing clan.

We clasp one another’s arms and jacket hoods alongside the large banner and it passes us smoothly into the street. The protest is long from over; new tents with inhabitants presumably staying the night are camped behind the massive rows of people before the stage. I leave the arena after this glimpse into the heart of Taiwan in perhaps the most heat since the Republic of China took reign fifty years ago. The sounds and sights of the old Taiwan astound me still; while a new Taiwan begins its crying stages.

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