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Beijing in the Time of SARS

Every day I walk by countless shops, restaurants, barbers, foot massage joints, illegal DVD vendors whose proprietors stand idle in their doorways kicking imaginary pebbles. As usual, the small guys and the transient laborers have been the first to lose work. The Chinese I know, usually so upbeat, so optimistic, so positive, have begun to show real demoralization. And of course, the government is suspected of serious mismanagement.

The net effect of SARS on me has been minor disappointment. My expectations for language study and immersion in Chinese culture have fallen short; instead I have spent this time among expats talking about SARS and which restaurants remain open. I do wash my hands more regularly, and I am less likely to buy food from street vendors. Wandering the city, I store memories of the quiet, empty places. I will revisit these memories with mixed feelings the next time I am pressed body-to-body in the Silk Market, Pangia Yuan, or Hong Chao. I will resent the crowds but welcome the smiles which are bound to return to Chinese faces.

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