We stayed in the city until the doors began closing for the afternoon, then headed south to Lake Trasimeno. Our destination on the lake was Castiglione del Lago which was described in my guidebook as an interesting example of military architecture. Built as a nearly impregnable fortress, it sat high on a promontory overlooking the lake. To reach the castle, we walked through a long passageway, with small slots in the stone walls offering occasional glimpses of the lake and landscape below. It was easy to imagine this well-protected place being defended in feudal times. A huge park-like area with evidence of castle ruins now serves as an outdoor theatre. It made a dramatic setting.

Arriving back at our farm in the late afternoon, we were relaxing outside when we heard a loud commotion in the chicken house. We wondered what was happening until Maria appeared from around the side of the building carrying four dead chickens by their necks. Someone was going to have a big dinner this night!

The next day our planned destination was Volterra. Along the way, a tiny walled town with numerous square towers caught our interest. Cars were not allowed inside, so we parked outside the walls and walked into the town of Monteriggionni, which was built in 1213 as a lookout fortress for the nearby city of Siena. After a brief look around and a refreshment stop at a cafe, we resumed our trip. Volterra sat high on a rocky plateau, its ramparts visible from a considerable distance. It seemed to take us forever to reach it, but eventually we arrived and parked in a large lot on the town’s outskirts. It was a short uphill walk to the central Piazza dei Priori, a medieval square surrounded by palaces. The town is famous for its large alabaster industry, and there were numerous shops offering everything from small souvenirs to large pieces of fine statuary carved from the stone. A few places allowed visitors to watch the artisans at work, their studios covered in a fine, powdery dust. After choosing a few small items to buy, we walked to the edge of town to see a fairly well preserved amphitheatre which included a Roman bath. When the shops began closing, we stopped for a leisurely meal before heading back home.

I decided to walk into town to pick up a few things once the shops reopened. The walk down into town was easy if a little dusty on the unpaved road. I stopped at the central cafe for an iced tea for which I had to specify that I wanted ice since the Italians do not use it in their drinks. I realized my Italian must be improving since I got exactly what I wanted! I sat at a table outside, watching children playing a game of street soccer, their yells and laughter echoing off of the same walls from which our car alarm had reverberated only a few days earlier, which now seemed like a lifetime ago.

That night, we went to dinner at a simple roadside trattoria we had seen outside of town. The restaurant was expectedly small and rustic. What wasn’t expected was the question we were asked as we were seated, “Carne, Pesce, o Vegetariano?” Meat, fish, or vegetarian? We had become accustomed to restaurants that didn’t have menus, but the offerings had always been much more specific than that! But, being good sports, we all answered, “Pesce”. A basket of delicious-looking assorted breads was placed at the table, along with a carafe of cold white wine. We wondered what would come next. Soon, a variety of seafood appetizers was served. As we finished the delicious assortment, a new selection was brought out. Thus began a parade of dish after dish of seafood and fish prepared in every conceivable way. The appetizers gave way to risottos and pastas. The carafe was never allowed to go empty. Just when we thought there was no way we could possibly be served any more, out came our waitress carrying a tray featuring a small upright tree with huge grilled shrimp skewered on its branches.

   1 :: 2 :: 3 :: 4 :: 5