The rest of my day was endured and the ache in my back seemed to be eased by the sing song and rhythm of the women. There was a sort of pleasant haze settling over me as I watched the utter pleasure of people working together. All over this mountain region sitting on the eastern most plateau of the Himalayan Range, tight little villages played out this annual ritual.

"These people knew full well about the ‘trappings’ of the outside world..." (Jeff Fuchs)

Due to time constraints we often miss the ‘in between’ places that sit nestled into valleys, places with no acclaim other than having maintained a way of life simply and successfully for centuries. These people knew full well about the ‘trappings’ of the outside world but were remarkably happy to return to the little village that was their home, as was I. Many locals are coming to the realization that much of their own grassroots culture is in fact more appealing than the huge gray monoliths of hotels springing up in nearby Zhongdian.

I had mentally set out a day of departure, fully aware that if I didn’t, I would not leave this place. In travelling, it always seems that just when you start delving into understanding a place you must depart. The night before I was to leave Ma came into my room and we just looked at one another. She then picked up my little alarm clock and shook it. While there were clocks in the home they were ancient and the hands had long since stopped their exercise. Now and then I would see her looking at my clock’s little green hands with delight, and it occurred to me then that this was to be my little gift to her. She understood my intention immediately and tucked it into the folds of her long dress and hustled off.

I felt leaden and grumpy the morning of my departure. Ma was working in the fields and Alo gave me a massive Zhamba ball to keep me from hunger. When I started to say bye to Ma, Alo’s muscular forearms guided me to a waiting truck. I understood. Ma’s turban looked up briefly then set down to work again with a little smile. There was no need for garish good-byes. The time we had together was enough.

"Fate had conspired to treat me to more than just stupendous natural splendor..." (Jeff Fuchs)

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